Fionna's Vintage Book Report March 2022

1972 “The Complete Family Sewing Book”. My copy is in good condition printed in the USA by curtain promotions incorporated New York City. I think it was missing pages, as it was packaged in a small fashionable binder. I don’t have it with me in Austin as of April 2026, so this is just a retrospective review.

My immediate impression of the writer’s audience, culture, and time is that the entire purpose of a woman's wardrobe was to be flattering while tolerably capable. Increasing one’s sensuality and visual appeal through strategic fabric construction is the idea of the woman reading it. There are funny ads in the front.

Chapter 1 is called “do wonders with your wardrobe”. It talks a lot about what an efficient wardrobe looks like, and how to get maximum value from garments and outfits. “Architecture. Make it work for you. Build. Work better. Maximum wardrobe mileage. Most flattering effect” A direct example from the book would be a zip in lining that winterizes a raincoat.

I determined 3 categories per individual: the wardrobe, emergent image, and accessory. Wardrobe to me means functionality, climate, necessity, work. Daily activities and responsibilities determine the general style or job of an outfit. The emergent image is the silhouette line / shape, color, fabric, call to attention. It is the modification of an apparent figure. Line creates direction. Recall the definition of a vector – that thing which has direction and magnitude. Distance is motion across time. Movement indicates attention and focus. Where someone looks and physically moves across creates an emergent mental image. Ask where the eye moves and what it accentuates.

There are tips about how to organize around what is most flattering and joyful to own. The book encourages the reader to dispose, let go, and declutter. I was doing a lot of that around the time I was working on this report and found it easiest to separate things by state of use and potential.

Chapter 2 is called “blueprint to fashion”. It seems to provide a top-down method of assessing the body, ultimately creating a formula for pattern alteration. This chapter is all about fitting garments to the body. It provides diagnostic techniques which inform alteration methods.

The following is a breakdown of measurements.

There are lateral measurements going from side to side which dictate width. There are vertical measurements going up and down dictating length. There are three major circumference measurements which define the front side and back dimensions of a garment. These measurements are the bust at its fullest point, the waist at its smallest point, and the hips at its fullest point. After that is shoulder width, sleeve length, sleeve width at the fullest circumference, center front waist length, back waist length, back width seem to seem, pants length, crotch length, thigh width at the fullest.

Ease is the addition of extra fabric to create a tolerance for movement and comfortability. 1/2 or 1 inch added to crotch length. 3 to 4 1/2 inches to the bust line. 1 to 1 1/2 inches on the waistline. And two to three inches on the hips.

Chapter Two includes information about fibers and fabric which is not very outdated considering its from 1972. This book refers to new fibers as “easy care”. They describe the process of how fiber becomes fabric. “Fiber to Fabric” Fiber is spun into yarn. Yarn is woven, knitted, pressed, or otherwise conjoined to create fabric. Finally, the finish creates the overall appearance, texture, and performance. “Wash and Wear”. They note the difference between natural and synthetic, though not manmade.

Natural plant fibers. Cotton is absorbent, strong and comfy. The length of the natural plant fiber determines quality. Linen is absorbent and cool though it wrinkles badly and frays. Wool is sheep also known as cashmere, Moe hair, camel's hair, alpaca, vicuna. It's warm absorbent and carries no wrinkles. Woolen is a combination of long and short fibers which creates a soft fluffy shapeless fabric. Worsted is long fibers which will crease and hold shape. Worsted wool becomes shiny, smoother, and more durable. Silk is one of the most coveted natural fibers and can be treated with chemicals to add properties. Weighted silk is very drapey though it is cheap and not as comfortable.

Synthetic fibers may emulate natural ones or provide a specific function. Polyester substitutes cotton. Acrylic can emulate wool such as Moto acrylic which is fur-like or olefin which is more of a filler material. Acetate rayon and triacetate emulate silk. There are glass-based fibers such as beta glass, fiberglass, PPG, and Virton. Metallic fabrics include Chrome flex, durastran, lame, lurex, netlon, mylar, nylmet. Elastic fabrics include nylon and spandex. Rubber exists as urethane foam in cored yarn.

Fabric blends are commonly used to achieve the desired performance. Cotton and rayon are added for absorbency, comfort, static discharge, disability, and affordability. Acrylics are soft and warm without weight, thus perfect for insulation. Nylon is strength without weight. Polyester improves wash and wear quality. Acetate helps with draping and texture.

End transcription of original document titled “On My Sewing Books” from March 6, 7 2022